Ho Chi Minh City: a bridge between past and future

History, wounds, and rebirth of Vietnam's former capital

Among Vietnam's more recent vicissitudes are events that have strongly influenced its contemporary history. Despite being thousands of kilometers from the old continent and the United States of America, this country has played a central role in conflicts related to the Cold War in Asia.

Massimo Troisi, in connection with Pippo Baudo on RAI, referred to the USA's propensity to take part in world conflicts. Thanks to his extraordinary comedic ability, he was able to joke about the topic, making a heavy and uncomfortable truth light. Think of Rambo: a character, a soldier, an American. He flies to Vietnam to free prisoners of war, performing incredible feats. The film is not so far from the reality of how certain narratives have been constructed. And so, perhaps, Troisi had his valid reasons when he ironically argued that the United States of America participated in armed conflicts only to boost its film production.

A bit of history: Vietnam's wound and resilience

Vietnam, like many other Southeast Asian countries, was the scene of a conflict that tormented it for almost twenty years. At the end of the Indochinese Federation period in 1954, the country was divided into two. North Vietnam became a pro-communist state and could count on the support of China, the Soviet Union, and other red dictatorships in the area. South Vietnam, on the other hand, became, by necessity, a pro-American and thus anti-communist state.

The plot of the film, in practice, wrote itself. The ending of the real story, however, marks the first true defeat of the American army. According to official statistics, the USA dropped a staggering 14 million tons of explosives on Vietnam: three times the total amount used by the Allies in the Second World War. This action, in addition to causing thousands of casualties, also contributed to the destruction of the country's natural heritage and, specifically, its forests. Furthermore, it is still possible to find, without too much surprise, unexploded ordnance from that period in the territory.

Despite this wound, deep and not yet fully healed, the Vietnamese population shows unwavering faith and resilience. Vietnam, as we know it now, was born on April 30, 1975, with the fall of Saigon at the hands of the North Vietnamese National Liberation Front, sanctioning the subsequent unification of the country. From that moment, the official capital was transferred to Hanoi, but Ho Chi Minh City has forever maintained its pivotal role as the economic capital. Since then, this country has evolved steadily and progressively, opening up more and more to the world.

Vietnam's opening to tourism and the development of old Saigon

Today, tourism in Vietnam sees many American visitors welcomed by local people as if nothing had happened.

The kindness and graciousness of these people shine through in the smiles of its inhabitants. It is a sincere and welcoming smile that conceals a painful past; a smile full of hope for a better future where resentment and bitterness find no place.

It is equally true, however, that conversing with older people still reveals the bitterness associated with the old colonial period, which saw this people literally enslaved by the French. Therefore, at least a partial knowledge of the contemporary history of this territory is crucial to understanding how Ho Chi Minh City has become the metropolis it is today, offering its guests the ideal place to begin to experience and understand Vietnam.

When I was told that creativity works best when it has boundaries, I couldn't help but think of this vibrant city.

The "organized chaos": celebrating Tết in Ho Chi Minh City

Ho Chi Minh City is organized chaos, a beautiful living contradiction.

Here, the institutional decorum of the Socialist Republic coexists with the night lights that illuminate the main entertainment street until morning. The statue of the communist leader Ho Chi Minh, who then gave his name to the city, erasing old Saigon, proudly stands in the city hall square.

In 2024, I was lucky enough to be here during Tết, the Lunar New Year that many Asian countries celebrate. Try to imagine the main street of a large metropolis during a very crowded weekend. That's how Ho Chi Minh City's walking street looked in the year of the green wooden Dragon. According to Eastern tradition, the Dragon is a symbol of strength, intelligence, and well-being, as well as being able to instill great energy in people.

Specifically, this period is experienced as a year characterized by opportunities, changes, personal growth, and wealth. That's why in every corner of the city, a genuine sense of jubilation and joy could be experienced. Almost all businesses, including those not directly related to the gastronomic sector, had tables set up outside where food was consumed in total conviviality.

In Asia, you're never alone: encounters, Phở, and shared itineraries

Another incredibly positive prerogative of being a traveler in this part of the world is represented by the itineraries.

More or less, anyone exploring Southeast Asia visits, in no particular order, some unmissable destinations. Therefore, it constantly happens to find yourself in a bar with a traveler you met weeks before in Cambodia, thus spending the evening together exchanging tips and routes.

If language barriers can initially be an impediment, don't despair: trust your lucky star and your trusty Google translator. That's how, as soon as I set foot in Ho Chi Minh City and without any initial technological support, I found myself sitting on a stool on the sidewalk, tasting my first authentic Phở. This typical dish is a remarkably tasty noodle soup with varying toppings.

Conviviality and hospitality reign supreme in Vietnam. This is evident from the spontaneous and kind gestures extended to travelers, who are constantly invited to share meals. A local drink that I found particularly delicious is Nuoc Mia, a juice extracted from sugarcane that can be mixed with citrus juices like tangerine. Truly good, inexpensive, and refreshing.

From Bui Vien's nightlife to the Viet Cong tunnels

Ho Chi Minh City's nightlife is overwhelming and can make you completely lose track of time, especially if you find yourself on Bui Vien Street.

Try it to believe it.

Another cultural activity you will surely encounter among the city's historical offerings is a visit to the tunnels used by the Viet Cong. If you remember the Rambo film mentioned earlier, you might visualize these narrow and ingenious tunnels, used by guerrillas to strike opponents by surprise and then vanish into the jungle.

Today, old Saigon is continuously expanding economically and urbanistically. Its skyline is ultra-modern, and the main skyscraper towering over the city with its futuristic shapes can only evoke the Avengers Tower in Marvel movies. There are also many new-generation cafés that serve as co-working spaces, offering splendid opportunities for solo travelers to make new acquaintances, connect, and chat with people from all over the globe.

Ho Chi Minh City is an essential stop on your Southeast Asia itinerary. This is a city that can only be partially described and recounted in words. For the rest, there is only one solution: you have to pack your backpack, get on a plane, and experience it.

Practical tips for Ho Chi Minh City

When to go: The Tết period (Lunar New Year, between late January and February) offers a unique atmosphere, but many businesses close for the holidays.

What to see: Bui Vien Street for nightlife, the Viet Cong tunnels, the city hall square, and the modern skyline.

What to try: Phở on a sidewalk stool and Nuoc Mia, sugarcane juice.

Tabishi's tip: Knowing the recent history of the country radically changes the way you look at this city.

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FAQ

Ho Chi Minh City or Saigon?
They are the same city: Saigon is the historical name, replaced after the 1975 unification. Many still call it Saigon.

What is Tết?
The Vietnamese Lunar New Year, celebrated with elaborate feasts, decorations, and widespread festivities throughout the city.

Where is the nightlife?
Mainly along Bui Vien Street, open until morning.

What must you eat?
Phở, a noodle soup with varying toppings, and Nuoc Mia as a refreshing drink.