Hoi An: The Unexpected Stop on a Masterful Vietnamese Journey

A bus leaving without warning, four in the morning, and the discovery that the unexpected, in Vietnam, is often the best part of the journey.

When the bus stopped in the middle of the night, in a semi-deserted square, I simply thought I had arrived at my destination.

The sudden switching on of the interior lights woke everyone up and, with the typical reflexes of someone who has just been pulled out of bed, each of us began to gather our personal belongings, making sure not to leave anything important behind. A glimmer of reason enlightened my thoughts and prompted me to ask another traveler where exactly we were. When he replied "Hoi An", the bus I was supposed to stay on had already left. I took it philosophically.

The truth is that for days I had been looking for a way to reach this city that I strongly wanted to visit, but, not having found a suitable means of transport to get there within the scheduled time, I had been forced to revise my entire travel plan.

Those who say that life is what happens to you while you're planning something else entirely are absolutely right.

For days I had racked my brain with various logistical hypotheses and in the end, I arrived in Hoi An purely by chance. If something is meant to happen, it happens. Trust me.

In the same way, I believe, we should learn to accept things when unexpected events throw a wrench in our plans. Perhaps, even if we don't like it at the moment, it's for the best. This is the greatest lesson Vietnam has taught me: to accept the unexpected with kindness. It's easy to say, but much more complex in practice. However, I am comforted by the awareness that every negative feeling is also detrimental; which is why it's better to let go and move forward lighter, without burdens in the heart and without disturbances in the mind.

A completely unexpected turn: 4 AM in Hoi An

It was 4 AM and on the deserted streets, only the dry sound of the trolley's rickety wheels I was dragging on the asphalt could be heard.

Just as I was sitting on a bench, trying to assess the situation and figure out where to spend the night, the solution to my problems was delivered directly to me via email.

The accommodation I had initially booked in the previous days, and then canceled due to the change of plans, had suddenly become available again. Within five minutes I had a bed and a destination. I continued my walk as the first, tireless local workers were about to begin their daily labors. The hotelier, a perfect embodiment of Vietnamese hospitality, told me that my room wouldn't be ready before two in the afternoon, but added that he would have breakfast prepared shortly and that, in the meantime, I could freshen up.

Hoi An's old town: an open-air UNESCO World Heritage museum

Having a large time gap to fill before taking possession of the room, I was advised to immediately visit the city's old town.

Hoi An is world-renowned for its old town, a true open-air museum that has earned the prestigious title of UNESCO Historical-Cultural Heritage. For this reason, too; this ancient port city, perfectly preserved and active between the 15th and 19th centuries, has become a destination for tourism that to call "mass" would almost be an understatement.

The importance of perfect timing

The timeless magic of Hoi An can be best appreciated and savored at two precise times of day, the only ones when it is still possible to walk freely through its streets without being forced to funnel through tourist flows.

Being early morning, the old town was almost deserted, and the few patrons present were dedicating their efforts to capturing the perfect photo.

An excellent initiative promoted to enhance a visit to the city is the purchase of a single ticket that allows entry to 5 historical attractions of your choice. There are plenty of things to see, all well listed and geolocated in a brochure provided at the time of purchase. Some of these attractions are slightly outside the main perimeter, and if you fancy it, you can easily negotiate with a local pedal-taxi and have them chauffeur you there.

A film set where cultures coexist

Hoi An's old town truly feels like an open-air set for an old oriental film. All the houses that hosted Asian and European merchants between the 1400s and 1800s are perfectly preserved and structured as house-museums. In these places, it's possible to relive glimpses of life from that era, and the many guides present, who will share historical tidbits and anecdotes with great professionalism, contribute to making the experience unique.

To an inattentive eye, all the houses and various temples might seem identical. However, by delving into the details of the different structures, it will become much clearer why UNESCO wanted to protect this unique place in Vietnam. Having been a central port for trade in Asia, Hoi An has acquired over time a unique heritage where different cultures (Chinese, Japanese, European) meet and coexist in total harmony. Upon entering each building, you will notice that the interiors differ profoundly and that even the temples vary according to the ethnicity of those who built them.

If you want a taste of Vietnamese cultural heritage, I recommend attending a show that takes place twice a day in a mini-theater in the old town, clearly indicated on the brochure map. I suggest arriving early and planning your movements well, as the shows are held at 10:00 AM and 4:00 PM, and admission is only granted until all seats are taken. A traveler's note: the morning show is historically preferable to the afternoon one due to lower attendance.

When light gives way to night: canals, lanterns, and nightlife

Indeed, even before midday, the area begins to get significantly crowded with tourists, many of whom wear traditional clothing to pose for long photo shoots in the historic streets.

Another fascinating attraction Hoi An offers is the chance to cruise the river that runs through the city. Despite the crowds, a cruise at sunset retains its incredible charm.

If you are lucky enough to be here during a full moon weekend, your evening will be enhanced by the many colorful lanterns magically floating on the waterway.

When light finally gives way to night, the city opens up to people looking for fun. The perfect place to meet other travelers and chat over a drink is the famous Tiger Tiger Bar. Keep in mind, however, that the bar's motto is: “don't be a pussy, be a tiger,” and not all patrons have making new friends as their only goal.

Little by little, deep into the night, everyone heads to their accommodations. It's then that I choose to walk alone, admiring the perfect reflection of the illuminated houses mirrored in the silent river. The silence helps to amplify the beauty of this magical place even more: this is, without a doubt, the second best time to fully enjoy Hoi An.

This unexpected but very pleasant touch-and-go actually hides the most significant part of the entire experience, its moral. Vietnam acts as a teacher and invites travelers to experience the unexpected with a positive and proactive outlook. Embracing uncertainty, in life as in travel, is the only way to be ready for the opportunities that truly enrich us.

Practical tips for Hoi An

Single ticket: Grants access to 5 historical attractions of your choice, with brochure and map included with purchase.

Cultural show: Two performances daily, at 10:00 AM and 4:00 PM, limited seating — the morning one is preferable, less crowded.

When to visit the old town: Early morning or late at night, to avoid main tourist flows.

Tabishi's advice: Leave room for the unexpected — sometimes it's the best part of the journey.

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FAQ

How to reach Hoi An?
Usually by bus from cities like Da Nang or Hue; it's a common stop on itineraries in central Vietnam.

When to visit the old town to avoid crowds?
Early morning or late night — the only times you can walk freely without tourist flows.

What is Hoi An's single ticket?
A ticket that grants access to 5 historical attractions of your choice in the center, with a map included.

Where is Hoi An's nightlife?
The Tiger Tiger Bar is the main spot for socializing with other travelers.