Ha Giang Loop: The Journey Within the Journey of Vietnam

Three days on a motorbike between mountains, rivers bordering China, and the question that remains open until the last kilometer: to drive or be driven?

Our journey to discover Vietnam continues with the story of a three-day tour that you have most likely already heard about. Ha Giang province is located in the northeastern part of the country, just a few kilometers from the border with China. This area of inland Vietnam is characterized by breathtaking mountain landscapes, which can be fully appreciated thanks to two-wheeled tours organized by various local agencies.

Before beginning the detailed narration related to what was seen and experienced during this experience, which I recommend to anyone planning an itinerary in Vietnam, I think it is right to make some important ethical considerations.

The difficult balance between mass tourism and sustainable tourism

During the first group dinner, one of the caravan leaders, at that moment made up of almost 80 people, genuinely thanked all the participants. According to the local guide, the economy of Ha Giang province has been extraordinarily positively affected by the tourism generated by travelers, allowing many local residents to achieve a better state of economic well-being.

It is wonderful to see firsthand how tourism, if developed with criteria and rationality, can benefit not only the individual entrepreneur but an entire community. Over these three days, it was possible to visit several villages, stop at various historic bars and restaurants, witness ancient rituals, and sleep in accommodations that highlighted how sustainable tourism is concretely possible.

Obviously, by writing and talking about the Ha Giang Loop, the number of visitors is bound to grow over time. There are already times of the year when groups traveling these roads are so large that they create real traffic, even though motorbikes and scooters are the only designated means of locomotion.

Finding a balance between mass tourism and sustainable tourism can be truly difficult, but it is the duty of every traveler to make conscious choices. The goal, when being a guest in another country, must be to experience new things by broadening one's horizons, returning home enriched in one's cultural baggage. It is quite different to put oneself at the center of everything, making the visited places and people met along the way serve only as a backdrop for social media posts. Tabishi's invitation is to share real life journeys, creating emotions that can be indelibly fixed in memories.

A final technical consideration concerns the strategic choice of whether or not to opt for the "Easy Rider" service (i.e., traveling as a passenger with an experienced local driver), but you will be able to answer that question yourself at the end of this article.

Logbook: let the journey within the journey begin

The Ha Giang tour departs daily from Hanoi, the capital of Vietnam, via an overnight bus that offers participants the option of being picked up directly at the airport.

Initial communications can be complicated at times due to language barriers related to the use of English, but with the help of Google Translate, every wall can be broken down.

The overnight journey ends in the early hours of the morning in Ha Giang, where it is possible to rest for a few hours before the official wake-up call. To ensure everyone's safety, larger groups are divided into smaller caravans, which then meet every evening at the end of the exploratory stage.

Stage 1: From Ha Giang to Dong Van

The first stage involves a challenging journey of about 142 kilometers.

Starting from Ha Giang, the first stop includes a boat trip on the Lo River, where you can enjoy a good coffee. The itinerary then continues towards the towns of Tam Son and Yen Minh, offering incredible panoramic views.

The road surface is not always in excellent condition: steep climbs alternate with sharp descents and many tight turns from which buffaloes and mini-vans traveling at full speed can suddenly appear. At times I had the impression of driving at night on the roads of the Amalfi Coast when the asphalt is at its worst.

The day ends around 5 pm with arrival in Dong Van. The tour usually includes meals, and dinner becomes the perfect opportunity to share a table with other travelers, exchanging stories. One thing you certainly won't miss at your table is the so-called "Happy Water", a rather strong alcoholic drink obtained from corn distillation. In turn, the Vietnamese friends fill the shot glasses and invite diners to repeat the words of a typical local toast, which quickly turns into a shouting contest. Despite the fatigue, the evening culminates in dancing and music before the night's rest.

On the border with China: the charm of the Song Nho Que River

The next day, after breakfast, we set off again towards the Chinese border, touching the localities of Lung Cu, Ma Pi Leng and Nho Que.

Along the way, we stop to admire the spectacle of nature and to enjoy a coffee at the establishments along the route.

A magical moment of this excursion is the view of the Sông Nho Qué, the Chinese river that crosses a small part of Vietnam. Depending on the time of year, there is a risk of having a view partially spoiled by the weather, as low clouds can prevent you from fully enjoying the panorama. At the same time, however, the thought that China lies beyond that azure river and those cloud-shrouded mountains holds a deep magic. Beauty lies in the eye of the beholder.

After a stop in a village where the locals wear traditional clothes, we reach Meo Vac, the destination of the second day. Once the luggage is placed in the home-stay (a very characteristic guesthouse), we get back on the saddle to go for a swim at a local waterfall. The advice is not to be discouraged by adverse weather: put on your swimsuit and jump in. You can then warm up at the bar of the structure, which also rents towels for those who do not have them.

Being the last group evening, Happy Water tends to replace water in the small village bars, which it is important to remember are completely devoid of ATMs for cash withdrawals.

Local hemp craftsmanship and return to Hanoi

The last day of the trip includes stops at Mau Due, Lung Tam, and Quan Ba. The most interesting stop of the day is at a hemp craft workshop. Hemp is used by local tribes for making clothes and accessories designed to last over time due to the natural strength of the material. The clothing is then enriched with manual decorations that still follow ancient traditional processing techniques.

The return to Ha Giang marks the end of the two-wheeled tour, and in the afternoon, the bus journey back to Hanoi is scheduled.

This concludes an experience undoubtedly facilitated by the presence of an Easy Rider. Given the unstable weather and road conditions, I believe I chose the safest way to enjoy the landscape. In all honesty, however, I cannot help but think how nice it would have been to be in the driver's seat myself and enjoy the exploration firsthand as a pilot. The question remains: what would you choose?

Practical tips for your Ha Giang Loop

Duration: 3 days, with departure and return from Hanoi by overnight bus.

How to get around: on your own motorbike, or with an "Easy Rider" – an experienced local driver who takes you as a passenger, useful if the weather or roads don't convince you.

Cash: in Meo Vac (end of stage 2) there are no ATMs – bring enough for the entire tour.

Tabishi's advice: choose consciously between mass tourism and sustainable tourism – live the experience, don't just photograph it.

Tabishi Way: durable garments for challenging routes

The tribes of northern Vietnam choose hemp to create garments designed to last and withstand any adventure. At Tabishi, we follow the same ethical philosophy: we select only organic cotton to offer you maximum durability and the lowest possible environmental impact. Explore our t-shirts and sweatshirts designed for those who love to travel light and with full respect for local communities.

FAQ

How long does the Ha Giang Loop take?
3 days, with departure and return from Hanoi by overnight bus.

Is it better to drive alone or with an Easy Rider?
It depends on experience and weather: an Easy Rider allows you to enjoy the scenery safely, driving alone offers more freedom and adrenaline.

Do I need to bring cash?
Yes — in Meo Vac, the second day's stop, there are no ATMs.

What is "Happy Water"?
A strong alcoholic drink made from corn distillation, a highlight of group dinners along the tour.